How Much Should My Dog Eat?

“How much should I feed?” sounds like it should have a simple answer printed on the bag. In practice, two dogs of the same weight can need very different amounts. Age, neutering, breed, activity and plain individual metabolism all play a part. The best guide is your dog’s body.

Why it matters

Extra weight is the most common nutrition problem in dogs. In the most recent veterinary-assessed survey by the Association for Pet Obesity Prevention (2022, U.S. clinics), 59% of dogs were overweight or obese: 37% overweight and 22% obese. That is U.S. data, and we could not find an equally recent Canadian figure, so treat it as a rough guide. A new APOP survey is being collected in late 2026.

Owners often do not notice. In APOP’s owner surveys, far fewer people describe their own dog as overweight than vets find in the clinic.

Extra weight is linked to arthritis, reduced mobility and a shorter life. In a long-term study of Labrador retrievers, dogs kept lean lived close to two years longer, on average, than their littermates who were fed more, and developed chronic problems like arthritis later.

Learn to body condition score

Veterinarians use a 9-point body condition score (BCS), published by WSAVA (the World Small Animal Veterinary Association). For dogs, 4 or 5 out of 9 is ideal. Scores of 6 to 7 are overweight and 8 to 9 are obese. Scores of 3 and under are too thin.

You can check at home in about a minute. The Ontario Veterinary College suggests three steps:

1. Feel the ribs. Run your fingertips over your dog’s sides, toward the top third of the rib cage.

• Like the back of your relaxed hand (bones easy to feel under a thin layer): about right.
• Like your knuckles when you make a fist (sharp and prominent): too thin.
• Like the palm of your hand (you have to press to find bone): carrying extra weight.

2. Look from above. You should see a waist, an inward curve behind the ribs. A straight or bulging outline suggests extra weight.

3. Look from the side. There should be a tuck where the belly rises up behind the ribs. How deep it is varies by breed.

Fluffy coats hide a lot, so always use your hands as well as your eyes. Ask your vet to show you your dog’s score at the next visit. Once you know what a “5” feels like on your own dog, it is easy to keep track.

Start with the label, then adjust

The feeding guide on the bag is a starting point, not a rule. It is based on an average dog, and many dogs need less.

1. Know the calories. Find the calorie content (kcal per cup or can). It may be on the bag or the company’s website, and WSAVA notes it is not required on Canadian labels, so you may need to ask the manufacturer. Calories, not cups, are what count. Two foods can differ a lot per cup.
2. Measure. Use a proper measuring cup, or better, a kitchen scale. A “cup” scooped by eye is often more than you think.
3. Check every few weeks. Weigh your dog if you can, and do a body condition check.
4. Adjust in small steps. If your dog is drifting above a 5, cut back a little. If ribs are getting sharp, add a little. Then re-check.

If your dog needs to lose a fair amount of weight, see your vet first. Weight-loss diets are designed to keep nutrients adequate while cutting calories, and cutting a regular food too far can short-change your dog.

Treats count

WSAVA recommends that treats and other foods that are not complete diets make up no more than about 10% of daily calories. That includes training treats, chews, dental sticks, table scraps and the cheese used to hide pills.

A few easy wins:

• Break treats into small pieces. Dogs care about how often, not how big.
• Use some of your dog’s regular kibble from the daily portion as training rewards.
• Low-calorie options like plain green beans or carrot pieces work for many dogs (check with your vet if your dog has a medical condition).
• Make sure everyone in the house knows the treat budget. One generous family member can undo a lot.

Activity, and busy daycare days

More activity burns more calories, but probably less than you think. A long day of play at daycare is great exercise and great for your dog’s mind. Here is how we suggest thinking about it:

• Feed for the typical week, not one day. If your dog comes to daycare two or three times a week, their regular portion should reflect that routine. Use body condition to tell you whether it is right.
• Do not add big extra meals after daycare. Dogs often come home tired and hungry-looking. A small top-up on very active days is fine for some dogs, but if your dog starts gaining, skip it.
• Watch the drop-off. Dogs who go from daily daycare to staying home (a schedule change, a move, or winter) often gain weight if their food stays the same.
• Water matters more than extra food. Make sure your dog has fresh water when they get home.

Young, very active, working or sporting dogs can need much more food. Seniors and neutered dogs often need less. Your vet can estimate a daily calorie target for your dog.

When to call the vet

Book a check if your dog gains or loses weight without a change in food or exercise, seems hungrier or thirstier than usual, or if you are not sure what their score is. Unexplained weight change can be a sign of a health problem, not just a feeding issue.

This guide is general information, not veterinary advice. Talk to your veterinarian about your own dog.